My 2005 Scion xB: Update #1

Click here for my first blog post on this car.

A little body work:

Since I posted my initial blog entry for this car in spring of 2017, I've done a few more things....
The front 2 fenders were starting to rust out. I realized the cause of this was because, for a few years, at my old house, I kept this parked outside in the summer. It was parked under a tree and plant matter had landed on the windshield area and been washed down to rest against the sheet metal of the front fenders. Flash ahead about 6 years and it started to eat through, to the outside.

the first appearance of rust bubbling.

Rust getting more advanced.

Solution:

The community college I where I studied automotive maintenance, (see below for the mechanical work I have performed), also has a body shop program. I bought 2 fenders for about $75 each, and they painted it. Free labor. I just had to pay for the paint. Total bill for everything on this job came to around $640. They repainted the whole front end, as if it had been in a collision. So hats off to them for doing a really good job. They had it for about a month. That is the only down side of this arrangement. Cheap... but don't rush them.

Just before dropping it off for the fender R&R.

The fenders, hood, bumper cover were painted, and the doors were blended.

Bonus that the bumper cover was repainted, as it had 14 years worth of rock chips.

New winter tire package.

As well as showing the finished paint results, these photos show my latest winter wheel and tire package, alluded to in the earlier post. General Altimax Arctic tires mounted on NOS factory EM-7 wheels, and coated with white Plasti-dip. Matches the body paint to a tee. this will be my 3rd winter on them, and Plasti-dip still holding up well.

Maintenance work I have done.

In the last year or two, I learned how to, and did, the following:

Serpentine belts replaced at 78k

Brake fluid drain and fill at 78k

OE coolant drain and fill at 78k

OE manual transmission fluid, drain and fill at 78.5k

OE power steering fluid drain and fill at 79k

Spark plugs at 79k

Replaced PCV valve at 79.7k

Replaced the OE battery with an aftermarket at about 77K

Current milage: 85,XXX

In My Garage: 1992 Honda Accord CB7

A desire... from way back

This is my 1992 Honda Accord. I bought this used car for about $3,000 in august 2004. It was stock. It had 115k on the clock.  I had always liked the 4th generation Accord. As early as 1997-98 when I owned my civic, I remember thinking this was a model car i want to own at some point. The import modding trend was not even in existence yet (in the midwest.)

From 1996-1999, I owned a 1989 civic and when I decided to get rid of it, I knew I wanted  a 4th gen Accord. I went shopping at car dealers in the Northern Virginia area, which was where I was living at the time. I couldn't find any '90-'93 accords. I ended up buying a white 1995 Accord EX sedan. Later I regretted my rush to go with that car, as it wasn't what I really wanted. I ended up trading that car in 2 years later for a brand new, silver, 2002 Accord EX V6 coupe, just before 9-11, paid cash.

Earlier car: My 2002 Accord EX V6 coupe

In 2004, when I bought the '92 accord, I thought I was getting a rust free car. I flew down to North Carolina to buy it. It was a 13-year-old car, with 115K on the odo. Only after driving it back to Wisconsin and taking it to some body shops was it clear that it suffered from the usual rust in the rear wheel wells. This had been covered up with some bondo and paint. I was dumbfounded that someone would go to those lengths to cover up some rust on a Honda. I was pissed! I wasn't sure if I should sell the car and try again, or have both rear quarter panels replaced and painted. After crunching the numbers, it seemed as if it would be a wash.

My CB7 accord in surgery.

So I went ahead and had the body work done. I had the 2 rear quarters replaced, as well as the molding on both sides, the whole car was repainted in the darkest tint of the factory color, and an Accord EX lip put on. This was all done for about $5,500. Which I feel was a good price. Any other body shop may have quoted me about $7,000. This was no Maaco paint job. (that was in 2005 dollars.) I had spent about $8,500 total on a car that you didn't see listed for sale for more than $4,000. However it did look like it was right out of the showroom at this point. This would be my first lesson in cars....as money pits.

 I've put only 20k miles on it since I bought it 12.5 years ago

Once out of the body shop, I got an all-around 20% tint. Now that the cosmetics were in good order, I would start to select my bolt-ons. Unfortunately I don't have much skill in wrench turning. So I had to pay shops for all the labor implied on this car. ...I hope to change that skill set in the near future.

Upgrades and maintenance.

Before I even test drove one, I planned to do the standard H22a swap. However I was surprised how much I liked the stock engine on first impression. So the swap fell by the wayside and I would just add bolt-ons to the f22a1 engine. I'm going to talk about costs throughout as I feel that would be informative for some. 

Engine:

F22a1 (135,645k miles - march '17) 
5-speed manual
ACT Streetlight flywheel
ACT H.D. pressure plate
ACT Street disc
AEM CAI w/ bypass 
Throttle body bored to 60mm with port matching 
B&M fuel pressure regulator + pressure gauge 
Balanced & blueprinted OEM injectors
AEM accessory pulleys
NRG engine damper (removed)
DC Sports 4-2-1 CC header 
Magnaflow cat-back
new OEM motor mounts 
new plugs and wires 
new cap and rotor 
new timing belt + water pump 
new fuel filter 
new throttle body gasket

Magnaflow Stainless steel Cat-back exhaust (2006 - $395)

DC Sports ceramic coated 4-2-1 header (2006 - $324)

A.C.T. H.D. pressure plate, street disc and 12 lb. Streetlight Flywheel (2006 - $578)

AEM Tru-power aluminum pulleys, alternator and power steering (2006ish - $160)

AEM cold air intake (2006ish - $207)

Hawk HPS brake pads and Motul brake fluid

Engine detail showing the fuel pressure regulator and fuel pressure gauge

Dynoed at King Motorsports

129.29 whp, 140.96 wtq

I keep this parked in my pole barn along with my Jag and my Bimmer. I keep a CTEK 3300 charger hooked up to it, as it may sit for a week, or 2, or more sometimes. I keep it locked with the alarm on. Without the charger, that would drain the battery over time. Also...It stays parked all winter (Thanksgiving to April 1st)

highly recommend this battery maintainer

Mid-March....The summer cars in hibernation.

Exterior:
new OEM rear outer quarter panels
new paint job (factory color)
new OEM side molding
OEM EX front lip
new rear Honda emblem
removed "Accord LX" emblems
4000k PIAA low bulbs
20% tint

Interior:
Stock

Suspension/Wheels:
Tokiko blue struts
HR sport springs
new front sway bar bushings
new upper control arms
new brake master cylinder
Hawks HPS high friction brake pads
TechnaFit stainless steel brake lines
Motul 600 C Racing brake fluid
(set 1) 15" x 7" matte black Rota slipstreams / Yokohama AVS ES100 195/60/HR-15 tires
(set 2) 15" 17 spoke EX rims / Falken ZE-512 195/60/HR15
(set 3) 15" '00 Accord SE rims / Falken ZE-512 195/60/HR15
(set 4) 14" x 6" OZ alloys painted white / Yokohama Aegis 185/70/R14

Audio / Electronics:
AWIA head w/ front aux input for iPod
Pioneer speakers
Clifford IntelliGuard 850 Alarm

Yokohama AVS ES100 summer tires

This car has sported several different set of wheels in the 12 years I have owned it.

Conclusion

So far, over the last 12.5 years I spent $22,130 for all parts and labor, and all other costs including the original purchase price. That would be considered a poor financial investment. However, This car still looks brand new, and is fun to drive. It turns heads all the time, and as time goes by, these Accords will be seen less and less, as they succumb to rust and old age. The only way I could get (at most 30-40% of what I spent) is to find the absolute right buyer, and that would take some doing.

If I was doing it all over again, I would buy from California (where rust is less of a problem then the southeast US, it would likely not have the bonus of a new paint job however) I would try and get my aftermarket parts off of forums ( honda-tech.com, CB7Tuner.com ) where people are parting out their projects. Therefore you could get parts for probably 50 cents on the dollar. I'd do all the labor myself (i'd have to get that skill first.) Going that route, I could get a fun car on the cheap. All the cars I have bought since, I have tweaked my approach.